Project EXI

The building of a Marlin 5EXi kit car, using a Seat Leon 1.8T 20v Donor

Sep 09 2010

Instruments have arrived

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My instruments have arrived from ETB.
REally impressed, defintly bought the right things.
White Dials, red needles, chrome bezel
80mm Speedo
80mm Tacho
52m Fuel
52mm Water
Fuel gauge float arm/sender
Water temp sender

Now to fit them. :)


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: interior, electrical

Sep 05 2010

Fuse Board cover

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I had a plastic cover that I planned on using to cover the elctrics. So I set about fitting that.
I cutout some wiring loom access holes, in the bottom right and top right of the cover panel, and used two M6 bolts and rivnuts to hold it in place at the bottom, and one M6 bolt centrally placed at the top to hold the cover.
It looks good and will offer excellent protection to the wiring, as well prevent the passenger kicking it and damaging wires.
I cut out a small square of aluminium to hold the battery in place, this is now firmly secured. Put the battery jacket on, to finish the battery work off.
Put the high pressure fuel pump and handbrake cables in some conduit and fixed the conduit to the rear bulkhead cross memeber with cable tie sticky mounts and cable tie.
cut short the excess/ unused wires from the ECU and tidied them away in a length of heat shrink tubing.
Tidied up the passenger compartment wiring by adding some small wraps of insulation tape. All wires now form a short tight bundle throughout the entire car.
Cut out a dash panel insert from steel plate, and secured with 4 button head bolts into the dash opening, used to mount instruments when they arrive this week.
Will get the dashboard mounting holes drill and riv nutted. With penny washers glue in place to strengthen the fibre glass and prevent stress fractures.
When the instruments are in place and working I can then think about getting the dashboard covered with some vinyl type cover.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: interior, electrical

Aug 31 2010

New Rear brakes and caliper carriers

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Ive picked up some new rear calipers for a Seat Leon to fit on the back.
My donor calipers were un-servicable, and the calipers provided by Marlin have problems with the banjo bolt connection fouling the rear driver shaft. So these were sent back.
The VAG calipers are expensive coming in at £118 + VAT, alot more than first quoted. VAG are into a marketing rip off here, as the calipers dont include the mounting bolts. So in addtion to the calipers you also need to buy the caliper mount bracket, which includes the required bolts and at £52 +VAT. The price is verging on RIP OFF.
But I didnt see a viable alternative.
So at £400 for rear brakes, im feeling the pinch.
Anyway, I now have the rear brakes and solution that works!!
Im currently setting up the handbrake, and needed to make a bracket to accept the handbrake cable. This will be welded onto the handbrake mount on the chasis, and eventually get some light greay enamel paint.
To guide the handbrake cable I think I will make some up some plates to route it passed the engine block. Fit a grommet in the plate to prevent excessive vibration. This will remove the risk of the cable rubbing on the sump. Its a bit more work than is needed, but the solution is elegant.
I have fitted the O-rings around the injector coils, as must for anyone else with a VAG engine, as the camshaft cover will get rain on it, due to the desing of the marlin bodywork, without these O-rings you can find that your spark plugs may fill up with water. Not desirable !!! Check you have the O-rings!!!


Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Aug 30 2010

Stop lights, headlights, indicators, hazard and wiper switch wiring

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Today I continued with some more wiring tasks.
Now the indicators are working, I wanted to get the stop and tail lights working, but first I had to connect the centre console switches, i set about getting the headlight switch working, all went to plan. Then i checked I had power on purple 8 at the rear, when the headlight switch is activated, which I did, I could hen work out which connection was the tail light and which was the stop light. Pin 3 is the tail light, 2 is the GND and 1 is the stop light.
I wired up both the left and the right hand side, and these work fine.
Then I wired up the hazard switch, which was simple enough. I now have hazard lights, which work even if the ignition is off.
Wired in the wiper washer and this spins up when the momentary push button is pressed.
Purple 8 is also the dash board illumination, and I have now wired this up to all the centrer console, when the side lights are turned on the switches light up. The wiper light doesnt work thou, so will have to see if I can get a replacement bulb.
Spotted a fuel leak on the front fuel pump so had to put some PTFE tape around the thread.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: braking, lighting

Aug 29 2010

More startup , running better

The mid range misfire seems to off gone away. Not exactly sure what fixed it, but according to the VAG ECU start-up procedure i missed a few steps out.
The first is to let the coolant temperature to reach 80C, I didnt do this before as I had my adjustable fan thermostat set to 50C, as I was running in the garage.
Also before sarting up the engine, the ignition needs to be on, as the ECU will go through some tests to calibrate the throttle control.
Also found a fault on the MAF sensor, near the air filter, when "wiggled" the engine note changed, on inspection the power pin blades were open too far, maybe making and breaking contact with the sensor. Fixed that a found some exposed wire on the same sensor where it passes through the rear bulkhead.
Anyone of these could of been the fault, or maybe a mixture of the all.
I connected the swirl pot to the main fuel tank, to rule out a fuelling problem, and temporarily sealed the the fuel gauge hole with an aluminium plate and gaffer tape.
I can now rev the engine pass the mid range, and upto some high revs, without any misfire. Blipping the throttle to fully down and then releasing, the engine pick up is quick and controlled. So overall all I think the engine is now sorted.
I also set about connecting up some indicator bulbs, both side repeaters and rear indicators. All are working and the pulse period is good, the relay can be heard clicking in and out. Dash board warning lamps are also working.
Replaced the oil switch (M10 from CBS), and this now behaves, with the new switch now going open circuit when pressure is reached, the oil warning lamp goes out when the engine is running. The oil switch is located top right of the oil filter housing, the exisiting wiring connection is not compatible with the new oil switch, so this needs to be removed and a 6.3mm spade fitting.
Need to make a handbrake mount, that will be tomorrows job !! :)


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Aug 27 2010

More startup, with new spark plugs fitted

The spark plugs have been changed and I still have a mis fire problem when the engine revs.
It might be fuel related, as Im only running from the swirl pot.
The HP fuel pump might be picking up some air as the fuel moves around the system leading to fuel shortage in the injectors.
I will need to fix up the main tank fuel guage and see if the problem persists.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Aug 26 2010

More startup, removing airlocks, fixing rough running

The engine still starts reliably, and now I have a header tank pressure cap it was time to see what happens with the coolant under pressure.
I had another air lock in the radiator, so bled that and was able to get the coolant upto 60C and the fan kicking in before another problem was spotted.
The engine at a few thousand RPM is miss firing, so I checked the spark plugs and coil packs. WOW, what a mess. All the spark plugs were corroded and to be honest I was suprised that it even started. It seems that since the engine was removed from the donor, water had got in and sat around the plugs, the coil packs are supposed to have an o-ring around them to prevent water getting to the top of the plugs. On all four coil packs, the o-ring is missing.
So I have ordered some new plugs, and 4 o-rings, to prevent future corrosion.
I will also try and clean the top of the engine block with a wire brush and vaccum cleaner, to remove some of this corrosion to tidy it all up a bit.
Should collect the replacement calipers, handbrake cable and plugs on Friday afternoon.
I know what I wil be doing over the weekend :)


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Aug 21 2010

Startup Day is.....today

First fire up is today Sunday 22nd August!!!
So what happened...............?
Connected battery and checked voltages without fuses. ...... OK
Added engine oil 4.7 l ...no leaks ........................ OK
Added water and coolant ...no leaks ........................ OK
Added fuses one by one checked circuits...
Radiator fan is permanently on. checked thermostat wiring, wrong connection
No supply to fuel pumps..... Checked wiring, ECU gives 3.6V on pin I thought was fuel pump relay suppy, Moved relays actuator to ignition switch Position 2 (Running mode) Fuel pumps now run.
Brake warning lamp is off, checked wiring, switches operate other way to what I thought, so connected switch feed for fluid level and handbrake to ground. Requires an update to the wiring diagram, so need to fix that for uses.
Added fuel to swirl pot, HP fuel pump spins up and makes un-usual noise getting louder then pops fuse. During which time engine wont turn over. Doesnt flood suggests fuel supply problem. Fire up elsawin and spotted got the fuel lines wrong way on engine, swapped these over.
Fuel pump now sounds right, and doesnt pop fuses, turn key to stage 3, engine fires up and runs!!!
I made a video you can see it here
First startup Video
The sound is awesome, the exhaust has a really nice grumble to it.
The radiator fan also kicks in when the temperature of the water reaches the set value. I had to have the temp on the thermostat down low, as my coolant system is not yet pressurised, but all seems good there.
Alternator lamp cuts in and out when the engine is running, so my alternator belt looks good.
Also my Cambelt and water pump change I did early in the project seems fine as the engine didn't blow up and all ticks over nicley.
Only issue noted so far with the wiring is the oil pressure, the VAG oil pressure switch closes when pressure is reached, so the light on the CBS dash panel comes on when pressure is reached, and not off. I have to figure out a way to "invert" this signal and add that fix to the loom.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Aug 19 2010

Panel warning lamp wiring

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First fire up is going to happen on Sunday 22nd August!!!
Added the 12 v supply for the 6 panel warning lamp cluster, into Red 3, igintion pin 15, as soon as the key is turned this now gets power.
Also identified the last 4 wires to connect from the original wiring loom.
These are on T14a pins 2,5 and 6
These provide power to various sensors and devices, speed sensor, Injector coils, so these can be put onto the the fuel pump supply.
For first power up I will not be using the main fuel tank, as this is not sealed as there is no fuel sender yet.
I will disconnect the return and supply to the swirl pot, and fill the swirl pot with fuel, ensuring the disconnected pipe are blanked.
Then I dont have to empty the main tank, when fitting the fuel sender.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Aug 18 2010

Raditor to engine pipework

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First fire up is going to happen on Sunday 22nd August!!!
I had some problems with the coolant connection to the engine.
Because the return if on the left which needs to connect to the water pump.
I crossed the inlet and outlet to the engine, however this ment I couldnt fit the oil filter. I solved the problem by reducing the length of the S/S tunnel pipes, and reducing the leg length on the silicone hoses. The connections are now closer to the rear bulkhead, leaving enough room for the oil filter.
I have also fitted the Fuel tank. Using the metal strap around the top to hold it in place, some rubber hose length cut and put over the diagnoal chassis member holds the bottom in the place.
The fuel tank top brackets were dirlled and secured using M6 rivnuts and bolts. Im suprised how secure the tank is. And it is not necessary to put a bracket in place to hold the bottom.
I have a few small details left to complete before fire up.
- fit a fuel line from tank outlet to LP fuel pump.
- fit fuel line from tank breater to copper side pipes.
- fit fuel line from LP fuel pump to copper side pipes.
Find a locate a 12 v supply for 6 panel warning lamp cluster, this is not hard as I can use ignition switch.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: heating and cooling
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