Project EXI

The building of a Marlin 5EXi kit car, using a Seat Leon 1.8T 20v Donor

Apr 07 2010

Modifying the rear hub plates

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Just spoke with mark and asked why remove material from the brake disc and not the rear flange, It is desirable to adjust the rear flange instead of the brake disc. Obviously as you then don't have to modify all future brake disc replacements. I have already pressed home my rear drive plate, removing it now makes harder work. But as I am hand modifying I will stop removing material from the brake disc, and start hand modifying the drive plate (by file). Using a brake disc as reference until it fits.
UPDATE:
I now have some rear drive plates that are future proof!!!
I managed to find a friend with a lathe, who was prepared to machine of the the excess from the drive plate, WITHOUT removing the bearing which was pressed home into the upright.
Stock rear discs from a Seat now fit, the seat front drive plates (Fitted to the rear of the EXi)
For the record the drive plate diameter has been machined from 126.8mm to 124.5mm.
The internal diameter of the brake disc is 125mm
Awesome !!!


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: braking

Apr 06 2010

Rear bearings & uprights

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Jim at SJB has done my bearings for me.
A hydraulic bearing press was needed as to get the bearings home needed a 5 Tonne force. No way could I acheive that at home.
Jim also had the special VAG tool to tighten up the CV boot clips, so that is all good stuff. Thanks Jim !!!

I've looked into the steering column mounts further and it does seem sensible to make these slightly larger so the mount points can be moved to allow more movement in the adjustable steering rack mechanism.
It will also create some additional space between the universal joint on the steering column and the brake pedal.
My Brother in law Dave has a MIG welder and has volunteered his services to weld the new bracket in place, once I have had them made.
Ive fitted the longer of the two driveshafts into place this fits nicely with the rear right upright, bearing and drive plate assembly. Now its time to fit the rear caliper and brake disc. In order to fit the brake disc over the rear drive plate you have to remove about 1mm of material from the inside of the rear disc. This is easy if you have access to a lathe, if not then some more pain begins. I am using a rasp bit attached to a drill, this seems to be able to remove metal slowly but surly, and what appears to be quite evenly.
The first disc is almost ready will continue and hopefully finish that one tomorrow night, then I can see if and how the geometery will work for the rear caliper. Fingers crossed it all fits.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 05 2010

Castle coombe

Mark was supposed to be racing today at Castle Coombe, but saldy due to a blown engine he was unable to make it. He was to also bring me some parts, but thankfully from the parts point of view he was able to give them to someone else for me to collect.
So today it was a day out at the races!!
In terms of parts I was able to collect the dashboard, ECU, Swirl Pot Calipers discs and pads.
I have offered up the dashboard to the EXi and on first inspection the space between the steering wheel and dashboard front seems very tight. It appears to me that the adjustable steering colum may not be adjustable, as the steering wheel needs to be fully extended forwards and very low in order to fit with the space defined on the dashboard


Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Apr 03 2010

Driveshafts boots

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Ive fitted all four replacement drive boots. I have to say this was the messiest job I have ever done, you have to fill the boots with grease, and then get the ends attached. Which means grease comes out and goes everywhere.
I havn't managed to get the replacement clips done up yet, as the audi clips require a special tool to close them tight. I dont have this tool so will see if Jim at SJB can offer some advice.
Ive also fitted the earth attachment cable to the chassis, fixed in place two earth blocks for the wiring, I have measured the impedance at 0.6 Ohms, the cables on the meter also show 0.6 Ohms, so that is a good connection for chassis earth.
Ive also attached the washer bottle, to the front bulkhead, directly behind the fuse plate and re-positioned the steering column lower mountby drilling a hole slightly lower than the original, this then allows full movement of the steering column.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Mar 30 2010

Driveshafts boots

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I ordered some replacement Drive Boots and collected them today from Jim at SJB. I went for the orignal OEM part and not an aftermarket set, as the life of them will be longer.
Fitting these will finish of the driveshafts and make them brand new.
The new inner boots come with the metal domes, metal clips and a huge tube of grease.
The outer boots come will the metal clips and replacement nuts for the drive plates.
I also continued on the wiring loom, fixing and soldering up the short lengths of wire that go from the fuse plate to control switches and the steering column.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Mar 29 2010

Relay and Fuse plate fixing

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I've soldered up the most of the wires now for the Fuse plate, and changed the size of the P-Clips around the loom as the number of wires decreases as alot need to go through the fuse plate. When fixing the loom in place I can definatly recommend a P-Clip kit, so you get the correct size P clip as the loom diameter is different in nearly every location. I got mine from AutoElectric Supplies.
When I made the loom I delibratly left out wires that connect to the switch gear, next job is fit these.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

Mar 28 2010

Connecting components on fuse plate with wires

I've soldered up the short wires for the fuse plate. The next step is to begin integrating this with the wiring loom.
I have mounted the fuse plate on the passenger side, at the top, but have left enough room to route the main wires up the left hand side and along the top of the front bulkhead. Any wires which require relays or fuses, can then divert through the relevant fuse/relay.
Ive added some P-clips to support the main loom, and also some P-clips to divert wires out of the main loom, and across the fuse plate.
Integration was easier than I had expected, I think this is down to homework done in designing the loom, and identify cables.
Wires from the loom, are only crimped at the moment, again I will solder these permantly once the routing is complete.
Ive also added the missing Alternation warning lamp wire to my loom, and updated the wiring diagrams.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

Mar 25 2010

Radiator and Intercooler

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I decied to order the intercooler, if you need one you need a Golf 1.9/2.0 TDI 10/03 ->
I got mine from Ad Rad, for £144 inc VAT and delivery and it has arrived. The intercooler is much bigger than I expected, taking up the entire space in the A-frame bracket at the front of the EXi.
The intercooler fits in the brackets perfectly, although you may need to remove some of the mounting lugs on the intercooler, as these interfer with sliding the intercooler in place.
The intercooler side pipes line up nicly with the intercooler inlets, a single silicon hose, should allow a good air tight connection to be made.
The radiator is different problem, it was first hoped that a Seat Leon radiator might fit behind the intercooler, but given that this about the same size as the intercooler it may prove to be too big, as it will not fit between the intercooler inlets, the other problem is the seat radiator connections on the left or right side, but at the top or bottom, so one feed will always be between the side panels and the fuel tank.
The recommended radiator is a Rover 25 1.6/1.8 this has a feed also at the bottom, But this can be connected from underneath the fuel tank, it is also narrower than the seat, so will fit between the intercooler from the Golf.
I have considered trying to mount the seat radiator horizontally, from the top of the intercooler to rest over the fuel tank, but this then opens up more issues.
So I I think I will be writing the cost of using the seat radiator off, and ordering a Rover Radiator. Whilst on that subject I do have a brand new rover radiator fan, which should fit the rover radiator


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: heating and cooling

Mar 20 2010

Fxing components to the fuse plate

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I started wiring the connections that need to go locally on the fuse plate, things like power feeds to fuses, and/or uses to relays.

I decided to use non insulated terminals, which basically means they can be soldered or crimp. But being an engineer, I do like to over engineer, so I will first crimp them, and then solder them. I did put on some insulating terminal jackets first thou, so once soldered these slide over the terminal giving the necessary insulation.

I DO NOT recommended using this type of terminal with out any insulation. Particularly in an automotive application.

While making the short wires and terminal connections I found that I did not leave enough room to connect the terminals and wires to both of the 8-way fuse holders, so I have moved them further apart and re-positioned the indicator relay.

I also looked at my wiring diagrams and spotted a mistake, I had labeled to different relays with the same ID, so this meant I am one relay short in my order. But thanks to my earlier idea about using the same and making extra holes for future relays, Ive now used that up !!!

If i was to make this again I would make the plate another 50mm or so bigger in all directions. But hey, so far so good, its taking shape.
I hope to solder all the terminals over this weekend.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

Mar 18 2010

Fabricating the fuse plate

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Ive removed the paint from the aluminium panel, and counter sunk the holes for mounting the components.
I will mount the fuse boxes and realy and then start the wiring of this module


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical
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