Project EXI

The building of a Marlin 5EXi kit car, using a Seat Leon 1.8T 20v Donor

Mon Nov 21 08:33:17 GMT 2011

Windscreen is in


Its been a while since I managed to find the time and energy to get back into the garage. But this sunday was the day!!

The first job was to do the final fit on the dashboard, and get it sealed from the front bulkhead, I had to get the underside of the dashboard flat, given the curves on it, making a watertight and airtight seal wasnt going to be easy.

the solution was to use some fiber filler, to fill in the curved areas, that would then let it sit on the fron cross beam of the passenger area.
Once this was built up I use some neoprene rubber, and stuck this on the front cross beam of the passenger compartment. This would then take up the imperfections int he fiber, and allow movement for vibrations etc. Applied some PU glue to the top of the rubber, so the dashboard would be securly held in place, and water tight at the front.
Held in place with the four bolts as before
Ran some PU glue along the undeside of the dashboard, to the wheel arches, so any water spray cannot penetrate into the passenger foot well.

Once the dashboard was in place, and all electrical connections made and tested, the windscreen could go in. I used some spacers to hold it in the correct place. Checked the alignment, removed and cleaned the windscreen. Then with a windscreen bonding kit bought from ebay, primed the glass and the bodywork. Allowed this to cure, and then ran a triangle shaped bead of sealent around the bodywork and frame. Leaving out the spacer area.
Put the windscreen in and aligned it all correctly, once the glue had started to go off, removed the spacers and then filled the holes and gaps with more sealent. Smoothed down with a wooden spatular, and allowed to cure. Removed excess sealent from glass and bodywork, before it went off.
Job done.
Never fitted a windscreen before, and it wasnt that bad, I had taken the time to figure out where the best place to fit the windscreen was, and used the spacers to hold it in. It was a messy job thou, get that sealent on your hands, and its tough to get it off !!! Should of used more pairs of gloves.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Mon Oct 24 10:19:22 BST 2011

Number plate mounts


Spent saturday in the garage cutting some aluminium sheet to hold the front and rear number plates.
The front number plate is secured with 2 90degree bracket and M6 bolts to the top side of the front the splitter
This then sits the number plate, fairly low down, slighty over the front splitter intake, but not blocking it too badly. Asthetically it is pleasing
The rear number plate is much simpler, a square(ish) plate bolted onto the rear. Directly under the number plate light

Fitted the high level brake light to the rear engine cover. It must site at least 350mm above the ground, but not more than 1500mm. Mine is sat at about 800mm, so spot on in the range.
I couldnt fit it anywhere else, like on the under side of the roll cage, as this would make the wiring long and complicated.
The brake light is a stick on type, but I also elected to drill a hole and bolt it onto the aluminium panel as well.
The wiring can run along the underside of the rear clam, and connect into the rear brake lights without too much of a problem.

Finally I thought I would try and tidy up the front undertray. When viewed from the front, the front edge was visable underneath the front splitter. It was bugging me a little as it didn't look or feel tidy. I decided to remove the undertray, bend it the front edge up. So the front edge is now directly behind the front splitter.
I still have to cut the side panels, and secure the modified tray to them. The tray is a bit narrow at this point so will have to widen the tray, or fit in some spacers, to ensure it is secure.

Been in contact with Marlin about my VIN plate. It is taking a while to get that made. Firstly I got the wrong number on the plate, now I dont have a plate at all. Hopefully should arrive soon, failing that I will have to make my own and goto the IVA without one?

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Mon Oct 3 07:46:48 BST 2011



Its been a quiet last month in the garage. Ive been away on my summer holidays for two weeks, so now I'm back it is time to concentrate on the last of the jobs so I can get through IVA.
I've missed the summer, so perhaps I can get the EXi on the road before the harsh winters come back
The list of jobs is shrinking so now might be a good time to update.

IVA must haves
Fit the windscreen
Trim and fit windscreen surround
Obtain windscreen wiper arm and blade
Bleed rear brakes
Align rear wheels
Secure brake lines (braided hoses and handbrake) at the rear
Add one addtional wiring loom p-clip in passenger foot well
Fit VIN plate
Stamp chassis number into chassis, in a few places
Remove, clean and re-fit front undertray
Make, and fit rear number plate holder
Make, and fit front number plater holder

Not required for IVA
Fit front splitter mesh
Fit passenger foot rest
Fit drivers foot rest

On saturday I set about fitting the windscreen. Firstly I removed all stickers from the screen and cleaned the outside. Then using some plastic shims (Normally used for construction of floors or walls) spaced the windscreen to obtain the correct position in the dashboard and the roll cage.
In the end I have a 10mm space on the bottom of the screen, 8mm on the bottom left and bottom right, and 1mm at the center top. This should enough to hold the screen away from the metal of the cage, so the at no point does the screen contact the roll cage of dash board directly. Once filled with PU adhesive, the screen should be spaced and provide a level of shock absorion/ anto vibration, to prevent creating stress points on the glass
That is as far as I got, as once I start the bonding process I cant stop it (The glue will go off), and I the screen is then permantly in place, so no way of getting under the dashboard to fix anything else
Next step to clean the inside of the screen, apply some isoproponyl cleaner to the glue contact points and install the windscreen permanantly.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link

Thu Sep 1 07:51:04 BST 2011

Colour match Gel coat


I now received some pigment from the manufacturers of my bodywork. So this should be a perfect colour match. Get some Gel coat mixed up, and have masked of the area of bodywork to Gel Coated. Painted on some gel coat, ready for sanding back and polishing. Might need to paint on some more, but will what happens with what I have coated on for now.
Sanding the colour match will start on thrusday night.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: bodywork

Thu Aug 25 08:57:21 BST 2011

Gel coat colour


As I have said before the GelCoat I have is not an exact match to the rest of my bodywork, so I have been on the phone a fair bit, and now have all the details of my bodywork colour.
I am getting some pigment from the manufacturers of my bodywork so I can do a colour match.
But for the record. My bodywork is
ColorPlas 11964A, Batch number R818H 5/10/10, Rylands 3957

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: bodywork

Mon Aug 22 10:35:18 BST 2011

Gel coated wheel arches


Add some Gel to the wheel arches, it went off really quick so was able to sand down shortly after, use 80 grit to start with to remove deep paint scores. Then upto 180 grit, then 400 then 1200. Had to apply another coat of gel as it went very then in places. Sanded down again. But think a third coat is needed.
Will aplly a third coatd, and sand down one final time, (i hope) before applying t-cut to get a nice polish surface
The first sand down, is hard work, so much so my fingertips were bleeding by the time I finished :(
The end result should be worth it, the gel coat is not a perfect colout match, but will do for the time being until I get onto a full spary painted finish

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: bodywork

Thu Aug 18 20:10:26 BST 2011

Alternator tensioner

Fitted the new tensioner, and a longer belt 6PK938, it might be a little long but is within spec. The belt passes the tensioner at just under 90 degrees, so there is a lot of room for movement now. It also means replacing the belt will be easier. If a 930 long belt was available tha would be the ideal size.
Had to replace the fuse for the air horn, put in a 15A and that is now working.
Body filled in some of the fine pin holes on the wheel arches, a little more wet and dry sanding, and these will be ready for gel coat

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain, electrical, bodywork

Wed Aug 17 11:27:11 BST 2011

Alternator tensioner

I have had a horrible rattling grinding noise on the engine for some time now, and I suspect it to be the alternator belt tensioner.
So went to SJB Autotech today and ordered a new one &60!! And some longer alternator belts, as the 6PK905 I have on there now is too short.
So will try a 6PK923, I need the tensioner to sit in the middle of its range, having the belt too short may add some un-due stress on the bearings which has led to it failing early.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain, electrical, bodywork

Wed Aug 17 09:04:30 BST 2011

Wiper Autopark

Soldered the 5 wires for the windscreen wiper in permanently to the wiring loom, heatshrunk, and wrapped in conduit. Secured the wiper motor back into the housing, and tidied up the loom on the front bulkhead. Next job refitted and secure the dashboard back into place

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical

Tue Aug 16 06:45:42 BST 2011

Wiper Autopark - solved

The solution that I posted yesterday, does indeed work. I wired it up directly in the first case, and checked the ciruit works, and it did first time.
The next step was to add the two additional wires needed into the loom, this meant removing the tape, conduit, and sleeve from the fuse board to the wiper motor, and from the center console to the wiper motor. A real pain, but it had to be done. The job was made easier by the fact that I hadn't put the windscreen in place, and could still remove the dashboard. After about 2 hours the wires were fitted, and the loom re-seladed and secured in place. All that is left is to solder the 5 wires onto the wiper motoro connector, and heatshrink the multiway connectors. Secure the dashboard and reconnect all the components.

Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: electrical
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