Ive rivetted the floor pans to the underside of the car. Glued with PU adhesive, and 5mm rivets, alot of them.
Getting the floor pan in place was tricky, given it galvansed steel it is quite heavy. In the end I used a plank of wood, and used two ratchet straps to hoist and hold the metal work to the underside. Once in place a few rivets in key areas held and aligned the floor pan into the correct position.
After about 200 rivets the floor pan was in place.
The front section of the floorpan went in just as easy.
I had to cut the aluminium under tray to fit in and around the side panels, I decided to rivnut the under tray into position, using 5mm button head bolts, there a lot of servicable parts around the fuel tank, so removing this was important.
I have moved the rear brake lines to feed the rear calipers from the top side instead of the bottom side, as it fowled the wheel.
Fitted electrical conduit on the rear clam shell and added an 8 way connector so the electrical system can be unplugged and the rear clam lifted off, with a circuits connected.
Next job drop down!!
I managed to get two full days in the garage weekend, and made some realy progress on many jobs.
passenger floorpan - Drilled and fitted rivnuts, rivets for securing the underside of the side panel
Put the wiring loom in flexible protective conduiy. I used 3 sizez 19mm, 11mm and 6 mm. By the end of the day, almost all of the loom was secured. In the passenger compartment I used 25mm P clips and secured the loom to the chassis. Under the dashboard, I have used larger 8mm cable ties and fixed to the various dashboard mounts. Beyond the front bulkhead I used self adhesive cable ties mounts. And around the engine bay I used cable ties onto chassis. It looks really neat, and Im pleased with the results.
I enlarged the hole for the heater matrix fan. Using a 100mm diameter speaker grill, glued in place with PU glue, to allow a good air flow, have the heater matrix bolted into place on the driver side center console panel.
Run some PU glue around the chassis and floorpan, to seal of the small joins to prevent water and dirt getting into the chassis.
Drilled floorpan holes for the passenger seat, 16mm holes with bling grommits.
Door bearclaw locks, welded in a plate for mounting the door locks, and welded in another plate at 90deg to this for mounting the door locks. Works well, and fills in the void on the door/sidepanels. Need to prep and paint the bear claws.
Drilled the rivnut and rivet holes for the passenger side panel.
Countersunk the side panel for the drivers side and fitted all the countersunk screws.
Fixed rivnuts to the passenger side panel top edge by the passenger door,
am awaiting delivery of some new rivnuts before sealing the passenger side.
Order some split conduit for the wiring loom, will need to secure this in place prior to dropping the car down onto its wheels.
Fixed the smaller part of the main floor pan, to the chassis. Rivets and PU glue.
Drilled holes and rivetted the floor pan along the drivers edge.
Added M6 Rivnuts for the drivers side side panels.
Started fixing the floor pan, the largest floor pan section was fixed to the car. Using PU adhesive glue and lots of 5mm rivets, it is now permantly fixed to the under.
Still some work to do on it. Have to add some M6 rivnuts To secure both side panels.
Need to add in the front section, to the bulk head, will need to move the car stand forwards to achieve this. Then backwards to fit the final section under the fuel tank.
Need to drill holes through the main floor pan to allow fixing of the seats, and then blind grommet the holes.
Hope to drop the car on its wheels once the floor pan is secure. Hopefully the weekend of (16-17/04/11).
Recevied the modified rose jose for the rear suspension and fitted these. The thread for the 14mm piston rods was correct, and the overall length of the shock is now spot on.
For future reference the original is 30mm in length the new ones (which work) are 50mm. Any longer and the lower wishbone will hit the chassis!! You do not want this to happen.
Had minor disaster when fitting them however, I forgot to secure the rear clam shell up, when fitting the clam shell fell and hit my head. Leaving a one inch gash on my head. Saw stars for 10 or so minutes, with the odd headache and dissy spells for a few days after.
Continue with the center console, and have fitted 4mm rivnuts to the passenger side, drill holes for the rivets on the driver side plate. And ordered a speaker grill to fit over the hole for air in take vent.
Also started to the fit the floorpan, first had to overcome how to hold the floor pan in place, while rivetting it to the underside.
Found a solution by using a plank of wood and two ratchet straps. Fitted 4 rivets to align the plate, and will secure will rivets and PU adhesive over the coming days.
Continued with the center console, fitted the Fan to the driver side panel, and secured with self tapping screws rescued from the donor.
Drilled 5mm holes around the permiter edge for rivetting, need to translate the hole pattern to the chassis and front bulk head. When rivetting I will use PU adhesive to reduce vibrations when the car is on the road.
52mm rear suspension rose joints have arrived from GAZ, this time they have the correct thread and rose joints, so fitting these should be straight forward. Hopefully they will do the job, and incerase the default ride height. Will defintly allow more suspenssion droop.
Whilst im waiting for the rear shock mounts. Ive started to tackle the center console.
I am separating the two footwells with aluminium panels, and using the space in front of the gearstick for 2 dials and switches. The void between the footwells will house the heater matrix and fan.
Ive cut out the two shapes to fit, and need to figured out how the fan will be mounted.
The fan is to be controlled via a switch on the dashboard recess.
The ride height of the 5EXi has been designed to be 75mm. The same maximum height of a road speed bump. Which means the car could bottom out on speed bumps.
To make the rear wheel fit, cutting the bodywork is a viable option, that until now has not been considered.
Extending rose joints is another option.
As is moving the top mount of the shock down, this will increase the angle of the rear shock, increasing travel over the range of the wishbone. But negligible in the bigger picture.